Skin Care and Diseases

Facials and recommended cosmetics

04/30/2001

Question:

I will be getting married this September and of course would like to look my best. I have never gone for a facial before, but was considering doing so because I have heard that it makes your skin look radiant. What`s your opinion on facials? Do you recommend any local Cleveland professionals? Or those to avoid?
Second, I also wanted to go for a make-over and try new cosmetics. Are there any cosmetic brands that you recommend (or do not recommend) over others? Department store brands vs drug store brands? Is there a difference? Are some cosmetic counters better than others; safer than others?
I`m a light haired, fair skinned, 25 year old female with mostly clear skin (an occassional break out every couple of months). I have combination skin - dry cheeks, somewhat oily forehead.
Thank you.

Answer:

Thank you for your excellent questions regarding skin care procedures for facial skin. From your comments, it sounds like your skin condition is quite good. It sounds like you take good care of your skin, avoiding the sun, etc. It is difficult to give a complete answer without actually talking with you and seeing you. However, based on these assumptions, here are some principles.
First, the healthy glow that people talk about is probably a combination of factors, including uniform skin color and texture (absence of spots, rough, dry areas, etc) and a `pink` or red color that is not too red nor too pale, and one that shows good blood flow to the face. Some of it is the radiance of a well-being feeling, however, which is very difficult to quantify and `create`.
Second, facials generally are provided by a variety of people, including beauty salons, dermatology offices, or plastic surgery offices. They vary but often they involve removing the dry `flaky` areas that are coming off the skin surface as a normal process. This is done by using glycolic acid often in combination with a dermaplaning procedure (fine razor to mechanically remove the scales). This procedure creates a smooth surface to the touch, which in turn, results in more even coverage of cosmetics. However, if treatments are too aggressive, they can cause irritation, redness, and abnormal skin turnover which results in skin dryness as the skin recovers. The `too aggressive` is the important part because this varies from one person to another. If you have this procedure done, we recommend going to a highly experienced skin care professional, preferably a nurse in a physician office who routinely does these procedures. If you plan something in September, we recommend trying procedures ahead of time so that the results will be known. If too much irritation occurs, several weeks could be required for recovery back to your starting point.
Regarding cosmetics, your question is very important because there are so many products on the market with so many claims. Keep in mind that the companies are using marketing to help persuade you to purchase products. So, the choice comes down to trial and error. The results or ingredients do not necessarily correlate with price. Sometimes the price is high because the products contain small amounts of expensive ingredients or have expensive packaging. For general skin care, we recommend a very mild, liquid cleanser and rinsing thoroughly with water. Moisturizers containing glycerin spread easily. Use of SPF 15 daily is essential. We recommend careful use of alcohol containing products as they can dry the skin. Reading the label is the only way to know what is in the product.
Working with a makeup person who knows the proper way to use color for your underlying skin color is an appropriate strategy. Some companies offer complementary makeovers and you might consider seeing what people would do and going with what looks good on you. You, your family and your friends can join in the process!!
I realize the answer is lengthy, but your questions are excellent and very, very important for providing optimum skin health. Please feel free to write again if you have additional questions.

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Response by:

Marty O. Visscher, PhD
Executive Director and Scientific Investigator
The Skin Sciences Institute
Cincinnati Children’s Hospital Medical Center
University of Cincinnati